Having grown up in Topanga, California, not far from Malibu, father and photo editor Matt Wessen is a long-time West Coast surfer. His surf story, however, involves more than just starting young and progressing with age. It also includes a connection to Hawaiian surf legend Rabbit Kekai, a board preference that might surprise you, and a thoughtful approach to something that some of us are guilty of neglecting—surf hygiene.
Read on for our conversation with Matt Wessen.
From Boogie Boarding to Meeting a Surf Legend
Modern-day surfing pioneer, accomplished champion, exciting innovator, worldwide inspiration, expert waterman—these are only some of the terms belonging to the celebrated Rabbit Kekai, who passed away in 2016. To Matt’s father, though, Kekai was also a surf teacher. For Matt, a brief neighbor.
Living near the beach in Topanga, Matt’s surf journey began in a rather classic way, with childhood boogie boarding. He then moved into surfing, beginning at Sunset Point: a rocky, dirty, not-so-good wave where he was less likely to be harassed while he learned. His skills advanced, and a chance to spend time in Hawaii after high school later brought him into the orbit of the surfing icon. On the island, he happened to live next to Kekai, who imparted to him some local knowledge in a bit of a full-circle moment.
Simply put, Matt says, “That was amazing.”
How Foamies Became Matt’s Go-To Board
Nowadays, as a father living in the Ojai Valley, you’ll find Matt catching waves when work, parenthood, and swell allow…but not on a board you’d necessarily expect.
“I’ve just kind of fallen in love with foamie riding,” he says.
It was two surfing injuries—a torn knee and a board to the face—that first got him into soft tops. Foamies soon became a way to push limits and ride critical closeouts with a lower risk of getting severely injured. Then, as life got busier and surf sessions grew shorter, they became a wave quantity tool.
But the benefits expand beyond safety and wave counts. Many surfers are familiar with the dilemma of choosing the perfect board from their quiver for the conditions. Make the wrong selection, and you’ll spend the entire session wishing you were on something else. But when you just have a foamie, Matt says, “It just kind of eliminates all that. And you decide, I have one board. If it doesn’t work, whatever. If it does, then great.” In his eyes, this, along with removing the pressure to rip on a performance board, affects the mentality you bring into the water. Read as: It ups the fun factor.
Oh, and for those out there who see foamies as generic cookie-cutter products, there’s more to them than a block of foam. Hand-finished wood stringers create differences between boards, and each soft top itself has a varying performance over its lifetime as it takes on water.
A Californian’s Tips for Surf Hygiene (ft. the Mariner Mat)
Another foam product Matt’s a fan of? Our Mariner Mat. Made from EVA foam using algae, it’s a crucial part of his surf cleanliness routine.
“[The Mariner Mat] really is so simple in the way of just having a safety barrier between you and the dirty ground to keep you safer and healthier,” he explains. And, unlike his old grass mat, its easy-drying material and drainage holes keep it funk-free and usable.
Hygiene measures start, though, with knowing what type of water you’re getting into. “It’s not like, oh, because it’s raining, you’re going to get sick,” he says, addressing a common assumption. Rain is a factor when it comes to health risks, but it’s just one piece of the puzzle. In Matt’s eyes, there’s a difference between the first major rain after summer versus the tenth. You should also consider where a spot’s water flow is coming from and acknowledge other unknown factors.
But whether you’re sending it at a city break in a downpour or surfing dry days in rural spots, there’s always a risk of getting sick. That’s where measures like a hood and earplugs might help. It’s also where a solid post-surf hygiene routine comes into play. In addition to using our changing mat, Matt likes a sinus rinse, eye drops if needed, hydrogen peroxide in the ears, and a 2.5-gallon bucket of hot water for rinsing.
Oh, and his key step—doing it all before driving home.
If you’re ready to upgrade your post-surf cleanliness routine, be sure to check out our earth-friendly bestselling Mariner Mat or our new compact version, the Mariner Mat II.
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We hope you enjoyed our conversation with Matt Wessen. He might be a Mariner Mat fan, but he also likes our Everyday Tote, designed for daily errands and casual adventures alike. Discover our Everyday Tote.
Wishing you a great time outdoors, with whatever it is that you love to do. -COD
